Ring Jacket grey-on-blue pinstripe suit

by Andrew W on May 25 2012 · 6 comments

in Advice,Suits

Post image for Ring Jacket grey-on-blue pinstripe suit

Ring Jacket. It’s an odd name that might be familiar to some readers: the blog of Hong Kong-based shop The Armoury regularly features their gear, usually with the sumptuous, mahogany-panelled surroundings of its showroom in the background. Their suits looked pretty effing sweet to me so, after spending an unholy amount of time in a Shinjuku department store, I one day found myself with a brand new grey-on-blue pinstriped Ring Jacket suit.

Fabric

Ring Jacket suits look best in fabrics that are ever-so-slightly out of the ordinary. The blue of the fabric used in my suit is a peculiar half-breed of navy and light grey that looks conservative under the florescent light of an office, yet quite vibrant in natural sunlight. This makes it ideal for those spring and summer months when charcoal is simply too severe.

As Ring Jacket is a Japanese company catering for a largely Japanese market, much of the wool fabrics they use are summer weight, including the one for this suit. It would be suitable for temperatures anywhere up to the low twenties (degrees C) before you really begin to feel too hot under the collar.

Fit and Construction

If I had to describe the fit of this suit in one word, it would be Neapolitan. The shoulders are soft, with just the slightest hint of padding; the lapels are slightly wider than normal; the waist is slightly nipped, but far from constricting; the rise on the trousers is low, but not noticeably so; and the trouser legs are slim and flattering.

For those of you who are used to a more structured suit jacket, putting on a Ring Jacket for the first time can feel very un-suitlike. It’s so comfortable that, until you look in the mirror, you may have trouble believing that you still look smart enough for work. For an off-the-rack suit, this is quite an achievement.

This suit is only one-quarter lined, which is fairly common in Japan. It’s ideal for Mediterranean or semitropical climates – which probably explains Ring Jacket’s popularity in Hong Kong – and can be worn during the summer months in the more temperate climates of northern Europe and the northern United States.

As for sizing, I would say that this suit fits slightly larger than, say, a Paul Smith suit of comparable size. I’m 5’ 10½” (179cm) tall and weigh 154lbs (70kg), and this suit is a size 46.

As usual with Japanese-made jackets, I had to have the sleeves lengthened by a couple of centimetres to accommodate my lanky arms.

The trouser legs taper towards the bottom, so you might want to have them cut shorter than you normally would to avoid the fabric bunching up at your ankles. I could have done with taking another centimetre or two off mine.

Conclusion

For an off-the-rack suit, this one is not bad at all. Ring Jacket have successfully paired Italian style and comfort with Japanese quality and attention to detail. You will find a multitude of suits within its price range (around ¥100,000), but you are very unlikely to find one that fits quite so well, looks as good or is as well made.

{ 6 comments }

Chemist May 26, 2012 at 1:47 am

Nice to see a new post on the blog! Fan of your work, keep it up sir! The suit looks great, wonder how long it takes to get Ring Jacket clothing in the UK.

Andrew W May 26, 2012 at 2:04 am

Thanks for the support! That’s a good question… Ring Jacket may see it as the clothing equivalent of brining coals to Newcastle: the UK is the home of the lounge suit. I think the most likely way for this to happen is for the owners of the Armoury in Hong Kong to set up a shop in London.

Kwon May 27, 2012 at 12:26 pm

Great review. May I ask the price of the item in Japanese market? I couldn’t find much information on the company website.

Andrew W May 28, 2012 at 8:40 pm

Hi Kwon,

Thanks for commenting! I think it was about ¥100,000 at full price, but I was able to pick it up in a sale for around ¥65,000. The Armoury website has prices in Hong Kong dollars, if that helps: http://www.thearmourystore.com/suits-1

The Chemist May 29, 2012 at 6:55 pm

Thanks, hopefully the next time The Armoury are in London for a trunk show I’ll check them out!

LoveTommy August 22, 2012 at 5:00 pm

Great article

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